In this post, Adam our founder shares his experience of cycling from Bournemouth to Stonehenge for the summer solstice on a Thursday night.
Photographs
The bells of Salisbury Cathedral rang out at midnight, their chimes piercing the crisp night air like a call to adventure. We were about an hour away from Stonehenge, our ultimate destination, but at that moment, the journey itself felt like a jubilant celebration. Under a canopy of twinkling stars, we danced in the empty streets, our laughter reverberating through the silent, slumbering city.
Just six hours earlier, we were nestled in the cozy confines of The Way Out Back Brewery in Southbourne, savoring slices of pizza and the warmth of friendship. As I half-heartedly watched a lackluster England vs. Denmark game on my phone, the rest of the group buzzed with excitement for the adventure that lay ahead.
Ten of us had gathered for the ride organised by Emma. Our goal was to embark on a leisurely 45-mile journey through the picturesque New Forest, Ringwood, and Salisbury, aiming to arrive at the ancient Stonehenge monument just in time to witness the sunrise on the longest day of the year—the summer solstice.
Embarking on this ride on a Thursday evening after work presented a unique challenge for all of us. Some had to arrange childcare, others had to take the following day off work, and we all had to brace ourselves for the inevitable sleep deprivation that would linger into the weekend.
Very few in our group had ever attended the summer solstice at Stonehenge, and none had cycled from home to the event before.
I had no idea what to expect. I’d seen snippets of video footage on the news in previous years, but I intentionally avoided too much research to preserve the surprise. We did, however, collaborate on planning the optimal route, choosing quiet roads that meandered through the New Forest with ample stops for drinks and recharging.
For the journey, I opted for panniers and a rear rack for ease of carriage. I packed light—just a huge blanket, a down jacket, trousers, and my toothbrush and toothpaste. No sleeping equipment was necessary for this adventure.
Leaving Bournemouth was exhilarating. Following a familiar route, we quickly settled into our groove, spending the first hour chatting with new friends and catching up with old ones.
The clear blue skies were a good omen for the night and the following morning ahead. It was just as well, as nobody had packed any waterproof clothing. For the last remaining hours of daylight, we breezed our way along quiet country lanes to the Alice Lyle pub in Ringwood. Here we were joined by the 11th member of the group, Matt. Face painting followed, and some of the group changed into yellow/sun-themed clothing. As the sun began to dip below the horizon, the rolling Wiltshire hills stood between us and Stonehenge.
Pedaling through the dark, serpentine country lanes, we were serenaded by the hoots of owls and the swift, silent swoops of bats. The moon, a massive orb of bright orange, ascended the horizon, casting an ethereal glow over our path. We played ’90s songs on a speaker—M People followed by The Beautiful South—reliving our childhood memories as the adventure pushed us towards Salisbury.
We arrived at Salisbury at midnight. The streets were silent, only the sound of the group making its way through the narrow roads breaking the quiet. In the center of Salisbury is a large open square. During the day, the square is full of people enjoying a few drinks and the summer sun. At midnight, we had the whole square to ourselves. After dancing, snacking, and admiring each other’s bikes, we continued on our way towards Stonehenge.
A few hills and one more hour of cycling lay between us and the unknown. We were keen to avoid the busy A303, so we chose a route that limited our time on this busy and dangerous road to as short a time as possible. This meant cycling along a footpath in the darkness, lifting our bikes over kissing gates, and taking an off-road route. As we crested the final hill, we could hear the mass gathering humming in the distance. The sight of fire being swung around and the lights glowing in a light blue hue made the nighttime journey worthwhile.
Finding a rare gap in the traffic on the A303, we slipped into the Stonehenge area. The sudden presence of security personnel, floodlights, and intricate infrastructure startled me, a stark contrast to the ancient, unyielding stones. We found a spot to lock our bikes, drop off our bags, and then made our way into the area surrounded by masses of people.
Before arriving at the stones, there were several pizza and burger vans. After cycling for almost 50 miles, a burger was very much appreciated. Wrapped in the blue and red blanket I bought in Kenya, I made my way to the stone circles. The atmosphere was like a music festival but without a main stage. Music and dancing were happening almost everywhere we looked. A group of people were singing Hare Krishna. Another group was playing drums and dancing.
The solstice is the only time of the year when people are allowed to touch the stones. Entering the inner circle at 1:30 am was like pushing your way to the front of a Taylor Swift concert, only with fewer teenage girls and more spiritual types passed out on the floor. It wasn’t a pleasant experience in the middle due to the number of people there, so I made my way to the northern edge of the stones and found a spot to spend the night.
Tiredness was now starting to creep in for everybody. Some of the group couldn’t stave off the desire to sleep and found themselves huddled on a blanket, resting while the rest of us explored the many sights to see. The sun started to illuminate the horizon at around 3 am. A bright orange glow in the east filled the sky. The anticipation of the sunrise was felt by everybody at the event, and slowly everyone started to orient themselves towards the stage, which was to be the sunrise.
Sunrise was due just before 5 am. Never before have I stood with 15,000 people and watched the sun rise. Those moments before the sunrise seemed to last forever. By 5 am, the sky was no longer dark and mysterious, and all sleepiness was expelled by the anticipated rays. The moment the sun made an appearance, the crowd cheered like a goal at a World Cup final. Phones came out, with everybody holding them above their heads to capture the sunrise on the longest day.
“Look, everybody is making a Stonehenge symbol with their hands,” James said earnestly. He thought that everybody taking photos were recreating the pillars with a stone sat on top with their hands.
I thought about how this experience would have been different in a world without smartphones. How fortunate I was to grow up at a time when social media and phones were not a thing and how much of our lived experiences have changed as a result.
Riding through the night, there is little footage or hardly any pictures. This is mainly due to the darkness and the group being fully present in the moment.
We stayed at the site for a few hours. The mass groups of tourists started to leave the area. I’m sure some people had to go to work that next day (myself included). Watching the groups of druids and pagans put on small stage shows and play instruments felt like a precious time.
Sometimes it’s difficult to know if you’re in the glory days until they have passed you. I remember a moment whilst I was sat with my friend Nick thinking, these are my glory days.
A few hours later, we cycled as a group to Salisbury, and I made my way home on a train.
I will forever remember the 18-hour adventure. It felt more like a three-week adventure and will take some time to reflect on. I feel lucky to have such a wonderful community to go on adventures with. Trips like this are the reason I wanted to start Pathfinder Bikepacking. For me, bikepacking isn’t about the bike you ride, the gear you have, or how quickly you go. It’s about the people you share experiences with and the cultures you surround yourself with.